Received the hydraulic brake line switch M10x1 with spade termnals from car builder solutions. So set about fitting then filling the hydarulic system.
One thing to make sure is that the trile reservoir is fitted correctly.
Two chambers have a label for brakes the thrid does not have a label.
Make sure that the two labbeled for brakes goto the front and rear brake setup.
The brakes were bled with the help of my neighbour, and all seems ok.
Now the rear pads were centered correctly the handbrake can be applied and works very well.
Had some problems with the clutch, where under pressure the bleed nipple came away from the gearbox housing. Once fixed correctly and secured in place the system was bled again and the clucth now operates first time exactly as designed.
Need to boko a transit van to collect the bodywork on Saturday !!!
My replacement brake lines from Marlin have arrived at 90cm long these should allow the front end to be connected.
Also received Fog Lamp, Reversing lamp and high level brake light.
I have ordered a hydraulic brake line switch M10x1 with spade termnals from car builder solutions. Fingers crossed this arrives by first class post on saturday.
An update on my module 3 order,.... its due to arrive with Marlin on Monday, so I may be able to collect it on saturday 6th November. Then the hard work starts again.
Completed the addition of multiway connectors for the dashboard instruments and center console.
Two on the dashboard panel and three on the center console with 2 connections spare.
I bought some multi-way connectors from Ebay, these arrived today.
My intention for these is to use them to allow the instruments to be removed without disconnecting all the connections.
Ive fitted 2x 6 way connectors on the dashboard instruments and am currently fitting another 2 for the center console.
Others will be fitted to the rear and the front lighting so the clam shell bodywork panels can be removed from the car without disconnecting or removing the lights
Sprayed the handbrake mount and attached the cables to keep them clear of the handbrake mechanism.
To fit the tunnels I had to make some adjustments to allow the gear linkage cable to exit the tunnel halfway along.
To do this I cut the tunnel in half, and cut out a slot to allow the gear linkage to exit.
Each half of the tunnel can then be fitted around the gear linkage.
Set about tidying up some wiring ready for sealing with cable loom tape.
I have finished of the centre console plate, and fitted the switches and the two gauges.
Made up the wiring to connect power and ground circuits to the clocks, instrument back lighting and sender connections.
I had to get the fuel gauge and the water temp gauges working.
No major problems with the fuel gauge. It worked straight away, I tested it by removing the sender and rotating the arm to both full and empty settings.
The gauge now reads empty, not surprising as I have hardly any fuel in the tank.
The water temp gauge was a bit different, I didn't want to replace the existing sender as the design is different to the calibrated sender purchased with the gauge. I decided to fit the new sender in the billet plug that was put in to cap the Seat Leon heater matrix feed. The billet plug needed modifying on my neighbours lathe ,drill tapping with a 1/8 NPT thread.
Once machined and fitted I ran the car and could see the gauge moving as temperature went up.
This now means that all the gauges and switches I decided to fit now work. RESULT !!!
I have 3 additional wires in the loom, oil temp, boost pressure and oil pressure. I decided not to fit these at this time, so have curled the wires up under the dash, if I decide to fit them later.
The weekend was a very busy. I managed to get two full days out in the garage working on the car.
Fitted the brake lines supplied by Marlin.
The rears brake lines are ok. I had to use the banjo bolts from the donor. The banjo bolts supplied were two different threads.
The front brake lines are about 10cm too short. The suggested route is to mount the Tee on the cross member in front of the fuel tank. Without enough length the lines pull tight when on full lock. Mark is going to provide me with some slightly longer brake lines.
Got the wiper motoro mount welded in place , primed and painted with 2 coats of enamel. I had to move the washer bottle over as the wiper motor needs to fit at a 45 degree angle.
Got the handbrake cables shortened. Next door neighbour used his lathe to machine a brass ferule to fit over the cut cable, the cable itself can then be unwound and the hole on the rear filled with flux and solder. Suprised how well this nipple works!!
The handbrake cable mount was also welded onto the handrbake chassis plate. This plate also has mounting holes for supporting a gear change cable and the two stainless hose lines for the rear brake and clutch. Just need to prime and paint this.
The brake line and clutch line running through the tunnel are now supported just above the heater pipes. I used the same mounts for the stainless pipe inverted them over the pipes to provide a level mounting area to use a cable tie to hold the two lines. Looks neat as well, no risk of fouling or the lines rubbing on things they shouldn't.
Started to cut out the center console panel. Spacers have made that screw down over the gearstick bolts to hold the center console panel up and away from the gear stick mount. The center console panel then bolts to the underside of the dashboard.
I have decided to trim the dashboard components in alcantara.
The dashboard will be in black, the instrument panel and the center console will be trimmed in red. Should provide a nice contrast in colours.
Bought the material from a friend at &15 the lot.
I have investigated the tacho problem by borrowing an oscilloscope from work.
Firstly the wire I connected to the ECU is on the the wrong pin.
I tracked this down pin 37 (132/37 Green/Brown), which shows a nice square wave 0V-12V pk , and at a frequency of 25.46Hz. About right given an idling engine.
((25.46 x 60) /2) = 763.8 rpm
At 1000rpm the frequency should be 33.333 Hz.
((1000/60) x 2) = 33.333
When connecting the signal to the tacho, the signal completely disappears so that indicates the tacho is not able to sink enough current
So it should be possible using a simple transistor circuit to create a current sink circuit. Will try this out tonight and see where we end up.
SOLVED!!! The small transistor circuit worked and the tacho now indicates an idle speed of about 1200rpm, when the engine gets warm the engine note can be heard to drop and the tacho now indicates about 750rpm! Details of the fix are in the build photos.
Just for the record the speedo worked out of the box using the Hall sensor on the gearbox
I set about installing the Tacho and Speedo.
Wired the two instruments into the dash panel insert and connected up backlight power, positive and negative.
The speedo was fitted without a hitch, and putting the car into gear the speedo moves and shows a speed. The odometer also starts counting up. so far I have done 0.1miles without going anywhere.
The tacho has prooved a bit more problematic, backlight works, and power is getting to the needle, it lifts of rest when the power is applied, but with the engine running, the needle doesnt move. This suggests either the wrong wire or an incompatible signal being sent to the Tacho.
Ive contacted ETB to see if they can help diagnose what the problem might be. for the record it is currently conntected to Blue/White pin 54 on the ECU.
My neighbour also glass blasted the cam rocker cover and the intake manifold, and wow what a massive improvement. They almost look brand new now. These have been fitted back onto the engine. Thanks Frank ;)
I have finished making the metal plate for the dashboard.
The warning lamp panel is mounted and counter sunk bolts hold it in place, it all lines up nice and works well.
I have two 81mm holes , one for the speedo and one for the tacho. These are held in place by bolt on clamps on the rear of the clocks.
It all looks really good
Oone slight let down however is the dashboard hump itself. The center line of which does not line up perfectly with the center line of the steering wheel. The wheel is about 70mm left of the dashboard hump. I dont see how things have gone wrong, it may just be the way it is on a 5EXi.
It may be a future project to cut out the dashboard hump and move it left. I could also see how much further right the steering column can be moved. This may reduce the effect seen in the lining up of the steering column. Will update later if I can see a solution......