Looking at the position I put the fuel pump again, I thought it would ease the routing of fuel lines, if the pump was moved to sit just below the swirl pot. So I moved it there instead, and use blanking grommets to fill the original holes in.
I then set about connecting fuels lines to the engine and the swirl pot.
Instead of running copper pipe to the low pressure fuel pump inthe front, I am now considering running some 10mm rubber fuel lines.
Found a sutiable bracket that can be adpater to fit the cylindrical high pressure fuel pump to the rear bulkhead. Using a custom jubliee clip kit, I have wrapped this around the bracket, and protected the foam on the fuel pump with a piece of plastic.
I have tucked the fuel pump out of the way near the roll bar behind the driver. It seems like a good place to mount it, all depends on how the hoses connected and if they can fed to the location without any problem
I set about figuring out how to mount the ECU to the rear bulkhead. On the ECU there are four small posts, so I made up some Z brackets to hookk over the four posts, which I can then bolt to the rear bulkhead, I can pack them with some small rubber grommets, and this should be ok for the ECU.
I also set about giving the ECU a polish, so with the a wire brush, and some autosol metal ploish, the ECU should be ok without a paint.
I removed the pedal box gave it a clean with a wire brush and re-paitned it with some enamel paint. Cured the paint with a heat gun and fitted it back to the front bulkhead.
Fitted the 3 master cylinders with M8 bolts, and space the clutch cyclinder with 2 M8 nuts, so all 3 pedals are align with each other.
Next i went on to figure out how to mount the ECU, I felt it best to make 4 brackets out of aluminium flat bar, bent into a Z shape, with 7.5mm holes that fit over the pins on the ECU, the Z bars can then be bolted to the rear bulkhead. This should then hold the ECU tightly in place.
I got some hi-tensile bolts and have had these welded in place by a neighbor. The accelerator mounting plate was then welded onto the edge of the Marlin supplied pedal box.
I then set about tidying up the plate by following the edge of the accelerator and angle grinding of the excess. This then gives the appearence that the accelerator pedal "floats" next to the brake pedal and clutch pedal.
Really pleased with the results, next to clean it and give it a coat of enamel paint to finish it off after all the modifications to it.
Once painted I can then go for permanent fix to the front bulkhead.
I've had remove the temporary fixing I made to mount the accelerator, and to make a more permanent fixing. The solution is to use a piece of 50mmx3mm flat bar, about 150mm long. and to weld it over the top the existing pedal box mounting lugs, drill through the flat bar through the lugs and countersink this hole. from the reverse side of the flat bar, mount the accelerator pedal with welded in counter sunk bolts. The pedal box can the be fixed to the front bulkhead & chassis, then the accelerator pedal mounted afterwards on the welded in countersunk bolts. I have started to re-cut the holes in the front bulkhead for the master cyclinders, just how to figure out a way to patch the previous holes. Perhaps a small aluminium sheet rivetted over will and sealed will be ok.
I've now cleaned up the smaller of the two brackets and rounded off the edges.
The change in the steering column setup is huge, and I would recommend this modification to anyone using a VAG column, in fact I dont think it is possible to use a VAG column without it.
Once fitted i set above removing the pedal box and repositioning it alot lower than before.
I've moved it as low as I can make it, to still maintain clearence between the universal joint and and balance bar. I have been able to lower the pedal assembly by 65mm, so now the horizontal center line of the brake pedal is 180mm above the floorpan. It used to be 245mm above the floorpan, unless you have size 18 feet, this was never going to work.
The pedals now sit on the balls of my feet, instead of the tips of my toes.
The brake pedal can be depressed all the way down, and will swing all the way up, without hitting the steering column anywhere.
Will refit the pedal box tomorrow, and go from there.
Will have to change the accelerator mount to fit, might try angle bracket route, welded to the side of the pedal box
This may also fix another problem, I couldnt get the brake fluid to fit above the master cylinders, now these are lower (attached to the pedal box) there may be enough room to mount these above it. Much better position!!
Now the main bracket was fitted, it was time to change the smaller bracket.
I made this bracket 75cm long and 50cm across, but had to weld in a plate that can be used to mount it to the existing bolt hole, otherwise the width of the bracket would be changed.
At the moment it is bolted on, but when I am fully happy with the position I intend to weld it on.
I need to round of the sharp corners, and remove the black coating from the hot rolled steel flat bar.
I can now see how much space this has freed up, between the universal joint and the balance bar. This gives a much better result, I can move the pedal box lower by upto 75cm, which means I can get the ball of foot firmly on the pedal instead of the tips of toes, which is not an ideal driving position.
Next job is reposition the pedal box.
Now the steering rack is in a better position I could do a first fit on the dashboard. I offered up the dash and marked the center line of the steering column. I then cut out 9cm of dash so it would fit around the steering column. The fiberglass was easy to work with, although the dust is toxic, so breathing protection was needed.
Once it fitted over the steering column I had to file out the dash around the roll cage, and increase the size of the whole on the left hand side to fit over the front bulkhead.
Good first fit, more work to be done on this later.
I've not updated the diary for while, as Ive been focusing on the steering rack and fabricating a bracket to bring back some adjustment in the steering wheel.
The metal work has been cut and drilled. Then welded together. I used an M10 penny washer as a template to round off the edges so the bracket has no sharp edges.
It works well, steering wheel can go from 27" to 30" away from the Bulkhead, previously it was 24", was is too short.
Now the front bracket is made, it was easier to see what position the rear mount can be made, the photos in the Build gallery show roughly were I think it should go.
The big advantage I can gain with this bracket mod, is to reduce the interference with the steering column universal joint and the balance bar. The net effect is the pedal box can be moved about 8mm left, and about 45mm down. This will reduce the effect and maybe the accelerator pedal can fit into the interior, at least the side panel change will be less severe!! :)
Got a call from Mark today, who has acknowledged that the length of the nearside gear cable is incorrect. It needs to be 120-125cm long, so my current cable with exchange for the correct length. Shame I have two holes in the rear bulkhead, to try and get the cable to fit. Will just have to blank them up.