As I have said before the GelCoat I have is not an exact match to the rest of my bodywork, so I have been on the phone a fair bit, and now have all the details of my bodywork colour.
I am getting some pigment from the manufacturers of my bodywork so I can do a colour match.
But for the record. My bodywork is
ColorPlas 11964A, Batch number R818H 5/10/10, Rylands 3957
Add some Gel to the wheel arches, it went off really quick so was able to sand down shortly after, use 80 grit to start with to remove deep paint scores. Then upto 180 grit, then 400 then 1200. Had to apply another coat of gel as it went very then in places. Sanded down again. But think a third coat is needed.
Will aplly a third coatd, and sand down one final time, (i hope) before applying t-cut to get a nice polish surface
The first sand down, is hard work, so much so my fingertips were bleeding by the time I finished :(
The end result should be worth it, the gel coat is not a perfect colout match, but will do for the time being until I get onto a full spary painted finish
Fitted the new tensioner, and a longer belt 6PK938, it might be a little long but is within spec. The belt passes the tensioner at just under 90 degrees, so there is a lot of room for movement now. It also means replacing the belt will be easier. If a 930 long belt was available tha would be the ideal size.
Had to replace the fuse for the air horn, put in a 15A and that is now working.
Body filled in some of the fine pin holes on the wheel arches, a little more wet and dry sanding, and these will be ready for gel coat
I have had a horrible rattling grinding noise on the engine for some time now, and I suspect it to be the alternator belt tensioner.
So went to SJB Autotech today and ordered a new one &60!! And some longer alternator belts, as the 6PK905 I have on there now is too short.
So will try a 6PK923, I need the tensioner to sit in the middle of its range, having the belt too short may add some un-due stress on the bearings which has led to it failing early.
Soldered the 5 wires for the windscreen wiper in permanently to the wiring loom, heatshrunk, and wrapped in conduit. Secured the wiper motor back into the housing, and tidied up the loom on the front bulkhead. Next job refitted and secure the dashboard back into place
The solution that I posted yesterday, does indeed work. I wired it up directly in the first case, and checked the ciruit works, and it did first time.
The next step was to add the two additional wires needed into the loom, this meant removing the tape, conduit, and sleeve from the fuse board to the wiper motor, and from the center console to the wiper motor. A real pain, but it had to be done. The job was made easier by the fact that I hadn't put the windscreen in place, and could still remove the dashboard. After about 2 hours the wires were fitted, and the loom re-seladed and secured in place. All that is left is to solder the 5 wires onto the wiper motoro connector, and heatshrink the multiway connectors. Secure the dashboard and reconnect all the components.
It is an IVA requirement that the windscreen wiper auto parks. For me this wasnt working. Im not sure why but the wires on 53a, motor supply were not connected. So Ive connected this up.
I havnt tested it yet, but it seems I need to run two additonal wires, from the wiper switch to the wiper motor, to get auto-park to work. Version 5.24 of the wiring diagram is available, There are two pages for wiper/wash, one for a normal double throw switch. The other is for a duralite 2 speed wiper switch.
The addition is to allow power to be fed to via the cam control, to the slow spped circuit when the motor is not in the park position.
The switch also breaks the ground connection when running in slow speed wiper. I will test out the wiring changes, and report back, prior to opening up the wiring loom and fitting in the wires permantly. Watch this space
This diagram shows how to wire up a 2 speed wiper motor with auto park
Applied body filler to the wheel arch, sanded down, refilled pin holes, sanded down again. Need to work on the join of rear clam to side panels, but the final shape is very much there. Good results as the wheel arch do not look bolted on.
Need to sand down the gelcoat around the filler,so that the gel coat will adhere, (Gelcoat has a parafin wax , which rises to the surface when curing), this needs to be removed. Then mask off the area and apply gel coat. The gel coat will look painted, but can be finished with T-cut once dry, to acheive the sheen
The next task is to complete the join on the fiber panels
Looked into the wash wipe auto park, and it seem that my moto does nothing when applying power over pin 53a and 31b. Will check to make sure that all contacts within the motor, onto the cam are making as required. Also need to check the wiper switch, as I may of left out a wire to driver pin 53a, when the wiper circuit is in the off position
Now the engine is runnign smooth with the FPR hooked up for testing. It was time to fix it permantly in place and route the fuel pipes properly
First I vacuum the entire car to remove as much of the fiberglass as I could, 40mins later the car was clean agian. The dust had got everywhere.
The best I could fit it was onto the rear bulk near the roll cage support, That way I could see the gauge and adjust the FPR should the need arise.
The bracket supplied needed a modification, so I bent it to form a 180 degree U-shape bracket, drilled a 9.1mm hole in the rear bulk head and fitted an M6 rivnut. The FPR is held in by two M4 bolts, given this was now a u bracket I had to use allen head button set screws. Fitted the in and out fuel lines, connected the vacuum hose, and job done.
With the engine clean again, it fired up, idle speed was constant, it used to rev around idling. Once it was warm, foot on the gas, straight upto 7000 rpm, with the new FPR, there was no hesitation, engine used to bog down and cough splutter, throw out black smoke, and never get passed 5000rpm.
Changing the FPR seems to off cured ALOT of fuel related issues.
A Very satisfying fix, I always thought the ECU was in control of the fuel mix, true to an extent, then you find the FPR is faulty.
Time is plug in the diagnostics again, clear any faults, and monitor the 02 Lambda sensor again and see if it happy (it used to read 80. But should not be happy at 50
With the fuel pump issue over I can now focus back onto the fiberglass wheel arches :). This time I will try and keep the engine bay cleaner, and cover it a dust sheet
Applied some fiber filler to start shaping the rear wheel arches, sanded down with a flap wheel and 40 grit sandpaper, to give a structal fill. The next step is to sand down some more, and get a shape that is suitable for body filler
Thanks again to a neighbour who machined me up some 18mm hubcentric rear wheel spacers, wih an internal bore of 57.1mm these fit on the seat axle, and 73.1 to fit the inside bore of the team dynamics, without the need for spigot rings. 14mm holes on 5x100 PCD, and some 14x1.5mm 47mm long wheel bolts, and now there is plenty of clearance on the lower wishbone, and with the wheel arch extensions the tyres fit under the body
The next question is do they fit when the suspension is fully compressed. If it does then some suspension spacers may be needed.