My seat belts arrived in the week from Marlin. I needed to get my own 7/16" UNF eyelet bolts and 2 7/16" Cap head set screws for fixing them to the chassis
The seat belts are black 3" wide, 4 point harness, with quick release turn buckle.
First job is to fit the eyelet bolts, I had to recut the thread and remove powder coating that was on the nut threads, which have been welded into the chassis, so removed the seats and re threaded the captive nuts with a cap head set screw
I could then screw int he four eyelet bolts. Using a screw driver I rotated the bolts until they were fully home and secured. Clipped on the lower seat belt straps
Inserted the haness bar into the new higher brackets, feed through the top straps and secured the bar in place with 7/16" unf cap head set screws.
Fitted the seats back in place, and feed the straps through all seat openings
It was that easy and a simple job to do
I have removed the high pressure fuel pump and sent this off for some testing, it seemed to off needed and higher current than expected. Hopefully hear in the week, if there is a problem with it
Looked into extending the rear wheel arch width, by about 20-30mm, by adding some additional glass fiber to the arch edges. Found a friend of a friend who can offer some expertise in this area. Will start this job next saturday all being well.
Fitted the last of the rear lights to the bodywork
Bolted the reverse and fog lamp to the rear, using one of the bolts that hold the hinge bar on. Then screwed the lamp housing to the support plate.
For the number plate light, i made a 60mm x 17mm hole in the body, so the light points down, to illuminate the number plate when it is fitted.
Thought about how to fit the high level brake light, I think I will secure this on top of the rear clam aluminium panel, I can then permanently fix the wire for this into the the brake ligh wiring on the rear.
Ive been in discussion with Marlin and it seem that the high pressure fuel pump is faulty. Other builders report that they can run both fuel pumps from a 15A. My HP fuel pumps is commanding 22A by itself. So this is excessive and does indicate that a fuel pump failure is imminent.
Marlin have agreed to swap out the fuel pump
My seat belt harness is currently at the powder coaters, so when that is done, I should receive my seat belt package
Today I took the time to investigate why the fuel pump fuse kept blowing. I had a 25A fuse in the main board, but it kept blowing. Obviously there was a wiring problem or the fuse rating was very low.
From this line (Brown 11) I have the front fuel pump, rear high pressue fuel pump and power for some of the engine components, like lambda, injectors. This was obviously too much for the circuit to handle.
The highest device on this circuit was going to be the high pressure fuel pump. So I removed the wiring for this and connected directly to the battery with an inline fuse. It blew a 20A fuse immediatly, but did not blow a 25A fuse. So i needed to provide a relief relay for the high pressure fuel pump.
What this means is using the original feed line for the fuel pump to activate a relay so his will switch in another supply line.
Given the high rating of this line I elected to use 4mm cable (I only had red left) so I marked the ground return by slipping some heatshrink over the ends.
Connected some crimp eyelets to connect to the fuel pump, and some a larger eyelet to connect directly to the battery ground. The battery fuse plate had spare blade fuse holders to used one of these and solder the power end onto the battery fuse plate.
Stuck a 30A 12V switch relay, to the rear bulk head, with cable tie base, and connected the relay switch live (original brown 11 fuel pump supply) to the relay. Now when power is applied to brown 11, the realy can switch and provide a separate power supply for the high pressure fuel pump.
I also reduced the fuse panel fuel pump fuse down to 15A, but maybe a 10A fuse will be enough for the circuit, will experiment and see what I can get away with
During the week I also managed to finish the gear gaiter, using the orignal donor leather gear gaiter, I cut a small square panel, stuck carpet onto it, shaped it to fit over the gear stick, and fixed the gear gaiter to it, with M5 nuts and bolts. The plate is held in with M8 bolts that secure the gear tick mount to the car. Looks good and does the job really well.
Completed the wiper mechanisim, had to increase the length of the wiper motor arm from 43mm to 60mm, in order to get the turret to sweep the entire width of the screen, fitted an 8mm spanner on the turret, to see the sweep until such time as I can get a wiper arm and blade.
Had to remove a fair amount of dashboard to get the opening for the threaded bar so it can rotate freely. Not much of a problem with a dremmel.
I used some M6 ball and socket joints on the motor, turrent connected with M6 stainless threaded bar. Will cover the thread bar with heatshrink to protect both it and everything else that may come into contact with it.
Finished the painting and filling of the steering colum surround, filled in the hole for the wash wipe stalk, the underside for steering column adjustment, two coats of etch primer, 3 coats of paint and 3 coats of lacquer
Fitted the surround to the steering column, and velcroed on the front panel to cover the lrge hole exposed wheel the donor wheel fitted. Pleased with the results, althought he paint finish is not my best, it is upto the job
Cut, covered and fitted the interior door panels. Cut out a cardboard template for the interior door panels. Then transferred that to 1.5mm aluminium panel. Once the final shape was finished, I cut about 30cm of black webbing, and rivetted this around the central door bar, to make a door close handle. Cut an opening in the aluminium panel. Drilled 10 holes around the edge of the aluminium panel then transferred and drilled the holes into the door fiberglass.
Fitted speed clips, to allow self tapping screws to secure the panel onto the door.
Covered the aluminium panle with black alcantarra with contact adhesive, folded over the back of the panle by about an inch
Feed the door pull handle through the panel, and fitted both passenger and drivers door panel in place with stainless self tappers.
Went to southampton Metal Supermarket to pick up some material. 5 1/2" 6082 aluminium round bar to get some customised rear wheel hub centric spacer made. Aluminium panel, to be used as door inserts and some spare aluminium flat bar, in case I need to modify the side panel stay bars
Refitted the dashboard now the paint and lacquer has properly cured. Fitted the heater control panel, and connected all wires to the dashboard. Secured dashboard in place.
Cut aluminium plate for the gear stick surround, need a slighty longer gear gaiter, or need to figure out how to increase the height of the gear gaiter holder. This maybe the better option but that is work in progress
Started to fill in the hole opening in the steering column surround. Glued in some plastic on the underside of the surround, where the old steering column adjustment handle was opened. Filled in the hole where the wiper arm used to be. Applied some filler, and started to sand the plastic with 1200 grit wet and dry
Will acid etch and paint the surround the same as the dashboard, shold result in a good finish, when complete with no holes