I was going to fit the Lotus Elise Heated windscreen, but they seems to be a huge problem in getting one for a reasonable price.
Cheapest so far that is in-stock is £412.
For that I might be able to buy a normal windscreen and fit heating.
The module from CBS looks ok, compact and powerful, has two cabin heating an two vents for screen demisting.
Will price it up along with a normal screen and see what i can get for my money
Set about fitting the front clam shell,
temporaily clamped the hanging brackets to the body shell so I could align the front body work, once the ideal location was identified I permantly fixed the hanging brackets with fiber filler and 3 M6 bolts per bracket. The front clam fitted really easily, and alignment was perfect striaght out of the box, modified the dash to remove a few tight spots. It does look like the dashboard front will need to be raised about 15mm, so seal the front clam shell correctly however this cant be done until the windscreen is in place.
Drilled and fitted the rear lights, both side/brake and indicators. No problem here was simple 10minute job with a drill and a dremmel to get the cut outs. A few M4 bolts secured the light clusters.
Decided to also fix the rear part of the side panels in place, to the mouting lugs near the roll cage. Again an M6 bolt and a rivnut were order of the day. This made fitting the rear clam a little easier as I had a fixed point. Removed some excess material from the panel joins, and some high spots on the facing surfaces which locate the rear panel.
Recevied the metal work for the seat runners. Have 3x2m lengths of 20mm x 1.5m square tubing, just need the phonecall to say seats have arrived.
Also have 25mmx4mm aluminium flat bar to secure the ends of the side panels, this is the next job on the list of todos.
All in all a productive weekend, shame its been as cold a -5C over the last few days, it doesnt do much for your fingers.!
Ordered two seats on Saturday, I bought two Corbeau Forza Sports in black vinyl from mini-speed. They should arrive in a couple of weeks, perhaps before. They are also FIA rated so will offer decent protection.
Will need to get some 20mm x 1.5mm square box tube to weld in a support for the seats. Not going to go with a runner, just bolt them directly to the chassis once extended with the tube.
Set about fitting the rear clam shell, so drilled the holes for the bracket, and used fiber filler to make sure it is secure and sturdy.
Had to remove the first of the exhaust mounting brackets at it interferes with the rear shell. Also had to remove some bodywork to get the turbo pipework to fit under the aluminum insert. It still wont fit so will have to see how I can reduce the height of the turbo pipework.
Set about lining up the rear clam shell with the side panels. I haven't fitted the side panels yet so there is still room for some movement there.
It seems the rear clam has also flattened since it was made, so I have clamped it together and hope it will retake its shape.
This isnt going to plan.
With 20mm spacers to raise the height of the roll bar the mounting hole on the front uprights wont fit onto the plate on the inside of the front 1/4 panels.
15mm should do the trick, this now means that the roll bar angle is slightly (by 5mm) below the level of the dashboard.
I dont see I have another choice, not without cutting and shutting the roll cage which I feel is a definite no no.
So I will go with 15mm spacers and see what happens.
Another issue is the rear part of the roll cage, the seat belt bar will foul the top of the rear bulkhead GRP.
The angle brackets just seem too low, I may end up cutting off the right angle brackets and fitting my own seat belt bar, maybe out of the same tube as the roll cage, but thats another job for alot later.
Will fit 15mm spacers and see what happens next.
I had to raise the height of the roll bar by 20mm, as the angle near the dashboard seemed to low, my neighbour made some spacers that fit on the bottom of the roll bar mounts.
This allowed the bottom of the GRP to slide all the way home.
This opened up a can of worms of problems.............
The intercooler side pipes now foul the inside of the GRP side panels.
only option was to lower the side pipes, so I swapped over the drivers side intercooler pipe with the fuel lines.
Had to make the boost pressue pipe slightly longer, luckily I had a longer length of 57mm tube, for now this is in place without the pressure sender. Fitting the sender back is another job.
All the u-clamp were mounted lower, and the old holes bunged with rubber grommets.
I decided not to fit ruvnuts to the new fuel mounting locations, instead just used M6 button head with M6 nylocs.
The drivers side went without too much of a problem.
The lowering of the passenger side was alot more troublesome, firstly the connections I made around the battery box were now all out of alignment, I have a 45 degree bend and a 90 bend before the pipework goes over the gearbox, with the pipe now lower this setup no longer worked. After about an hour of trial and error swapping the 90 and 45 degree bends over, it just about fitted. I could look a little closer and perhaps reduce the stress on the silicon hose connectors with a few small tweaks.
Now I had to connect the front section of the itnercooler pipes on the passenger side. This I still havnt resolved as the z shape pipe fouls the top of the suspension arm. The distance between the pipe and the front 1/4 panel is too big to fit a U-clamp. I may have to cut (10mm) off the bottom of this pipe to "move" the first of the Zs closer to the bulkhead.
I could of saved ALOT of trouble and expensive silicon connectors, if it was known before hand that the intercooler pipes MUST be mounted as low as possible on the side panels. I belive I can get it too work with the parts I have, will find out later on tuesday night....
Fixed the intercooler pipework to the aluminium side panles using 66mm Exhaust U-clamps. These work very well, and the pipes are very secure.
Fixed the two fuel lines below the side pipes, on the drivers side. Used 8mm P clips and M6 rivnuts.
Fitted the rear bulk head GRP panel, used M6 rivnuts and button heads, had to cut out a small section to fit the roll cage in place. Secured with M6 button heads.
Removed the cross member bar from the door openings, and made a holding frame to support the weight for the two GRP side panels.
Think I will need to front and rear clam shells in order to determine the exact position of the side panels. Although it does appear to located with the rear bulk head, I just want to be sure.
Swapped out the front brake line for the alternative supplied by marlin.
Fitted non return valve for the fuel tank breather.
Fixed the side panels on the passenger side, fitted as per the drivers side.
Bought some 66mm exhaust U-clamps, to fit the intercooler side pipes on securly.
Fixed the side panels on the drivers side, used sealant to ensure that it is water tight.
Riveted all section on, and fitted the accelerator expansion box.
Will need to address the rivets on the accelerator box, as these seem protrude into the drivers foot well a bit too much, and may fail an IVA.
Once the sealant is dry I will use a small wire brush to clean up the appearance.
Will fit the passenger side next, this should prove easier than the drivers side.
Last night I made a paper template to make a box section that will fit over the accelerator,
Tonight I made traced it out, made it longer and folded aluminium to make the box section. Looks ok, given the limited metal folding facilities I have, a vice and a rubber hammer :)
Set about fixing the 4 aluminium side panels to the chassis.
Had to remove the turbo intercooler side pipes and Roll cage to allow better access.
Cut a slot out to add the extension required to box in the accelarator pedal.
Cut the slots for the roll cage, and door mounting plates.
Marked on side for pilot drilling prior to permanently fixing with rivets.
Got a new supply of various M6 , M8 and M10 nuts and bolts from screw fix, to rivnut on most if not all of the body work panels.