I ordered some replacement Drive Boots and collected them today from Jim at SJB. I went for the orignal OEM part and not an aftermarket set, as the life of them will be longer.
Fitting these will finish of the driveshafts and make them brand new.
The new inner boots come with the metal domes, metal clips and a huge tube of grease.
The outer boots come will the metal clips and replacement nuts for the drive plates.
I also continued on the wiring loom, fixing and soldering up the short lengths of wire that go from the fuse plate to control switches and the steering column.
I've soldered up the most of the wires now for the Fuse plate, and changed the size of the P-Clips around the loom as the number of wires decreases as alot need to go through the fuse plate. When fixing the loom in place I can definatly recommend a P-Clip kit, so you get the correct size P clip as the loom diameter is different in nearly every location. I got mine from AutoElectric Supplies.
When I made the loom I delibratly left out wires that connect to the switch gear, next job is fit these.
I've soldered up the short wires for the fuse plate. The next step is to begin integrating this with the wiring loom.
I have mounted the fuse plate on the passenger side, at the top, but have left enough room to route the main wires up the left hand side and along the top of the front bulkhead. Any wires which require relays or fuses, can then divert through the relevant fuse/relay.
Ive added some P-clips to support the main loom, and also some P-clips to divert wires out of the main loom, and across the fuse plate.
Integration was easier than I had expected, I think this is down to homework done in designing the loom, and identify cables.
Wires from the loom, are only crimped at the moment, again I will solder these permantly once the routing is complete.
Ive also added the missing Alternation warning lamp wire to my loom, and updated the wiring diagrams.
I decied to order the intercooler, if you need one you need a Golf 1.9/2.0 TDI 10/03 ->
I got mine from Ad Rad, for £144 inc VAT and delivery and it has arrived. The intercooler is much bigger than I expected, taking up the entire space in the A-frame bracket at the front of the EXi.
The intercooler fits in the brackets perfectly, although you may need to remove some of the mounting lugs on the intercooler, as these interfer with sliding the intercooler in place.
The intercooler side pipes line up nicly with the intercooler inlets, a single silicon hose, should allow a good air tight connection to be made.
The radiator is different problem, it was first hoped that a Seat Leon radiator might fit behind the intercooler, but given that this about the same size as the intercooler it may prove to be too big, as it will not fit between the intercooler inlets, the other problem is the seat radiator connections on the left or right side, but at the top or bottom, so one feed will always be between the side panels and the fuel tank.
The recommended radiator is a Rover 25 1.6/1.8 this has a feed also at the bottom, But this can be connected from underneath the fuel tank, it is also narrower than the seat, so will fit between the intercooler from the Golf.
I have considered trying to mount the seat radiator horizontally, from the top of the intercooler to rest over the fuel tank, but this then opens up more issues.
So I I think I will be writing the cost of using the seat radiator off, and ordering a Rover Radiator. Whilst on that subject I do have a brand new rover radiator fan, which should fit the rover radiator
I started wiring the connections that need to go locally on the fuse plate, things like power feeds to fuses, and/or uses to relays.
I decided to use non insulated terminals, which basically means they can be soldered or crimp. But being an engineer, I do like to over engineer, so I will first crimp them, and then solder them. I did put on some insulating terminal jackets first thou, so once soldered these slide over the terminal giving the necessary insulation.
I DO NOT recommended using this type of terminal with out any insulation. Particularly in an automotive application.
While making the short wires and terminal connections I found that I did not leave enough room to connect the terminals and wires to both of the 8-way fuse holders, so I have moved them further apart and re-positioned the indicator relay.
I also looked at my wiring diagrams and spotted a mistake, I had labeled to different relays with the same ID, so this meant I am one relay short in my order. But thanks to my earlier idea about using the same and making extra holes for future relays, Ive now used that up !!!
If i was to make this again I would make the plate another 50mm or so bigger in all directions. But hey, so far so good, its taking shape.
I hope to solder all the terminals over this weekend.
Ive removed the paint from the aluminium panel, and counter sunk the holes for mounting the components.
I will mount the fuse boxes and realy and then start the wiring of this module
I have started to fabricate a plate to hold the fuse boxes, and relays. It is easier going forwards to mount all the fuses and relays, so that if needed in the future it can be removed and serviced outside of the chassis.
Using some 2.5mm thick aluminium plate, the battery terminal hole and indicator relay mount were drilled M6.
The fuses and relays were drilled M4, I have made another hole in case I needed to fit another relay at a later time. While the plate is being fabricated I may increase the number of relay holes.
I intend to countersink the holes from the rear, so using M4 counter sink screws, this plate can then site flush against the front bulkhead. The photos show the grey plate, i intend to remove this grey paint, to leave a brushed aluminium finish.
I have removed the combi valve from the engine block and crafted and aluminium plate to cover the hole. The combi valve had a small gasket on it, I cut this to a different shape to sit neatly under the plate.
I also removed the SAI pipes that feed the combi valve, there is a SAI solenoid that is connected to the Vacuum system, for now this is still in place, but I will leave it unplugged from the ECU.
I've indentified all the ECU wires, and documented them in a PDF, from this it is easier to work out what wire of the ECU goes to what wire on the Marlin Loom.
I've added into the Wiring loom document a wiring map, showing the lengths and distance between connections for the wiring loom. From this I can make up a wiring Jig so that making future looms will be easier and more consistant.
Ive also run the power feed cable (20mm2) cable along the side of the passenger area, to provide all power to the front fuse boxes.
I hope sometime this week I can get around to soldering up some of the fuse box and relay wires.
Fitted to a VAG engine there is a system referred to as the secondary air injection (or SAI for short). This is a system where fresh air is pumped into the exhaust, when the engine is cold.
The idea is to burn off any unburnt fuel, to speed up the performance of the catalytic converter.
For the 5EXi this is not really needed. Its not really needed in the VAg engines, the main reason here is so the VAG group meet emission requirements in the north american markets. You will find that BAM engine in the VA group dont have the SAI system fitted. Main reason is these engine are not shipped to north america.
With this in mind the 5EXi does not need the SAI system. So for my Kit this will be removed.
This involves removing the Pump, Relay, associated electrical wires, combi valve, and vacuum hose connections.
When the combi valve is remove a small plate will be need to fill the hole into the exhaust. I intend to make a homebrew plate out of 2.5mm think aluminium plate I have and a couple of M6 bolts.
The wiring loom is still moving forwards. One thing I had to overcome is the power requirements for the fuses and relays, which are now some distance from the battery. In a convential setup this is not a problem, particulary in a front wheel drive, front mounted engine.
There are a number of ways to solve this problem.
Run small invidual cables from the battery, rated at the capcity the device being powered needs.
Run a large cable with capcity to power all devices, with some overhead for future expansion. This route is the more costly route, but in my opinion is the better option, it will allow other devices, such as a radio, electric heater etc, to be added later without the need to add more power circuits.
Given the seat donor also this method, with a 110A interior feed, this is the route the marlin loom will take.This then adds another problem, how to get a 10mm diameter cable to connect to 6.3mm terminal on the fuse box? Simple answer is you cant, so I need to get a battery terminal distribution connector. This two M8 studs, one for a the battery cable, using a 20mm2 M8 connector, the other is for smaller wires, stacked up, but using 6mm2 connectors with an M8 stud. using smaller wires with 6.3mm spades on the end to power the fuses box system.
In total this adds about £15 to the total cost of the wiring, but worth it in my opinion.
So another AES order has gone in, for battery cable, terminal connector, terminals, washer bottle and some slipon terminal id markers.
I have now identified the Mass Air Meter, and associated cable to the ECU. Just one connector left near the Air inlet manifold.
I will create a Marlin loom to VAG loom interface document, so all the wires that need to be connected up are easily identifable. !!
Also to fit the fuse box and relays to the front, it has been suggested to mount all the components onto an aluminium sheet, then mount the sheet to the front bulkhead. That way the switch gear can be removed and serviced outside of the marlin, awesome. Means I can solder inthe warmth indoors :)