Ive moved onto fitting the front suspension.
Fit the front lower wishbones BEFORE you fit the side panels. It is easier to align the wishbone bolts without the side panel in place.
Make sure the bolt for the front side lower wishbone mount points forward, (if that make sense) this same bolt is used to bolt on the frame at the fron of the vehicle.
You can then sit this frame over the end of the bolt and put the washer and nut on. Instead of holding this frame, trying to get the bolt through the frame hole and through the lower wishbone joint nightmare.
It also allows you to remove the front frame without removing the bolt from the wishbone mount and loosing alignment of the suspension setup
Once the front is fitted move on to fitting the side panels.
I used the same method to fit the panels as I did to pre drill the floor plan.
Offer up the metal work,
clamp it in place,
mark where the chassis is on the inside of the panel.
Remove the panel.
Mark hole from inside the panel.
Dill holes where you want the rivets with a 1 or 2mm drill.
Refit the side panel, and clamp in place.
The drill the 5mm holes for the Rivets, through the panel and into the chassis.
Remove panel, apply the PU sealent.
and Rivet in place, with 4.8mmx10 rivets.
This time I purchased the scissor action rivet tool, and WOW much easier and safes your knuckles.
Once the panels were in place the top of the suspension can be fitted, straight forward enough.
Add the dampers and springs to the setup.
And fix the upright in place. At first it looks like the uprights are interchangeable, they ARE NOT.
The mounting holes for the upright are slight different, one tapered hole is slight large than the other, which match the wishbone mount.
Fit for both sides.
Next was to attached the steering rack, again the tapered hole on the upright goes one way, looking at the hole it appears the the steering rack control fits from underneath, and not the top.
This surprised me a little, as I would of expected the steering rack to fit from above, you are then reliant on the nut to hold the connection. Wouldn't it be safer to fit the steering rack end from above??
Just in case for whatever reason the nut fell off (It shouldn't) but if it did you loose steering and tracking on the front. Instead of the weight of the steering rack fitting holding it connected.
Im not mechanic but I would of thought this would be more logical. It is what it is. I may try and fit two nuts to the rack for this reason.
So I fitted the steering rack to one side, and then the other. Now I got a problem, I get HUGE amount of toe-out when both sides of the upright are connected.
To get the hubs to appear straight I have a gap of about 30mm before the tie rod reaches the tip of the steering rack.
There is either a peice I am missing to extend the steering rack to reah the uprights, OR the steering rack I have been supplied isnt long enough.
I dont see a way I can have fitted anything in the area incorrectly,the steering rack is a fixed unit. So something has gone! Will have to speak to Mark to see whats happened.