Project EXI

The building of a Marlin 5EXi kit car, using a Seat Leon 1.8T 20v Donor

October 2009 Archives

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Oct 21 2009

Cleaning the gearbox some more

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I havn't updated the diary for a while, not because I haven't been doing anything. More to the point I havn't completed a task that required an entry
Now the gearbox is off, I have been cleaning it, ready for a painting. So far I have probably spent about 12hours cleaning it, with a dremel. Used 24 (to date) wire brush heads. With 9 years worth of grime
so of it very stubborn and in every corner that there is. On the VAG gerbox there are ALOT of corners. I may be able to get some paint on it at the weekend. Just need to mask of all the nuts and bolts first.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Oct 17 2009

Cleaning the gearbox

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Ive got the Gearbox off to give it a clean and spray paint. Clutch looks ok, so will leave that in there for the time being.
The gearbox is coming up well, dremel and wire brush is doing the trick. Got to remove to more bolts from the oil sump to free that, and that will be off.
Will be interesting to see how much debris there might be at the bottom. Seats dont have a sump gasket.
So if you decide to do the same this is a tube of white sealant that is needed to reseal it. The gearbox to engine gasket, can be re-used, just clean it up.
Removing the gearbox also allow easiser access to the side of the engine.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Oct 16 2009

Cleaning the turbo

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Started to attack the turbo with a dremel with wire brush fitting, ordered 30 piece dremel wire brush kit. I feel I may get through quite a few of the heads
It may take longer with a dremel than a wire brush on a drill, but for the ally sections on the engine it wont damage or score the metal. A drill brush can make quite deep scores. To get a good finish, its based on quality of the prep, so thats what I'm aiming for. Need to get an alternator belt, I dont have power steering or aircon so the standard belt for the leon wont fit. Ive measured the belt to be a minimum of 890mm and a maxium of 915mm, so will go for a 900mm belt. To give the tensioner room to work and the belt tolerance to stretch.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Oct 15 2009

Removing the turbo

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Removed everything from the Turbo side of the engine block, The engine block is now exposed. and ready for cleaning.
also got an M6x70mm stainless bolt to fix the broken steering column adjustment. Seems to work very well, so will go with that for now.
Spoke to Terry at Marlin with regards to ordering some other components I will need, Radiator,intercooler, front vented disks, handbrake cable, sealent etc.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Oct 14 2009

Part 2 - replacing the cambelt

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Got the M8 Stainless bolts for the cambelt. Looks better fits no problem. Didn't do much else tonight.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Oct 13 2009

Replacing the cambelt

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Got the new cam belt, water pump, and tensioner. Had trouble removing 2 of the 4 bolts that hold the alternator belt pulley onto the cam belt sprocket
Had to dremel in a notch and use a cold chisel to remove them. Once Id done that the water pump and tensioners were straight forward. Need to get 4 stainless bolts to fix the pulley back.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Oct 12 2009

Engine prep

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Went to a local independant garage this afternoon, SJB Autotech, to ordere a replacement Cam Belt, gasket sealent, oil filter and a waterpump.
Due to pick them up tomorrow! So the engine service can start tomorrow.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: powertrain

Oct 11 2009

Steering colum, gear change and handbrake fited

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Ive fitted the handbrake assembly to the Chassis, but I removed the horrible plastic cowl, Will need to find something more appealing
Fitted the gear change assembly to the chassis, again removed the gear knob and gater, Also need to find something more appealing later.
Removed the Air Bag from the steering wheel, this is easily removed by releasing the 2 spring locks, found on the back of the steering wheel. To remove the steering column cowl, you have to remove the steering wheel. I managed it with a 9mm Allen Key
once the wheel is off, two small grub screws can be removed to release the bottom section,and a couple on the top section
I alsos spotted that the steering wheel adjustment, mechanism had broken (Dont let the adjustment fold too far bax on itself with the steering cowl off) It may break the locking mechnism, as this happened for me.
Looking for a replacement part, you need a new steering column the small black washer part, broken for me, is not available, and at £400 for a new column this was out of the question
A Breakers yard my suffice, but insteadI thought I will remove the adjustment mechanism and replace it with an M6 x 70 Stainless bolt and nyloc. The wheel will still have movement, but under the control of a socket spanner. How many times do you move a steering for a better position? Once when you buy a new car. Dont see the point of it on a Kit Car, So that has gone!!
Also removed the ABS sensor from the wheel hubs, used the only tool of choice, big hammer. One ABS sensor, split into pieces, the other came out ok. In the bin, no good to me as the EXi wont have ABS.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: braking

Oct 08 2009

Front side panels

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Started to trim the front side panels
Cut the excess material off the aluminium sheets with tin snips
Need to buy some hole saws going for a 25mm & and 86mm, I think the 86mm is slighter larger than needed, but will also cut the tunnel holes in the front and rear bulkhead
Need to continue with the side panels, and file excess material to the score line on the panels provided by Marlin.

TIP
Do not fit the front side panels until you have fitted the front lower wishbones


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: structual

Oct 06 2009

Rear bulkheads

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Drill 2mm pilot holes into bulkhead panel at 70mm intervals and clamped to chassis.
Drillled 5mm holes through pilots and into frame.
Glued panel to frame, and rivetted with 4.8x10 blind head rivets.


Posted by Steve | Permanent link | File under: structual